#General Machine Embroidery Questions#
- Can I make a design I bought smaller/bigger?
Yes and no. Most machines can resize within 20% of the original size in either direction. However, this does not change the density of the stitches proportionate to the surface area, so it is not recommended within 5-10% of the original size as the number of stitches will remain the same.
- How can I make this image into an embroidery file?
That’s the second half of the embroidery adventure. There are no programs that are designed to convert and image to embroidery. So unfortunately, the cost of buying and learning digitizing software is often just as expensive as a commercial machine, and often way more expensive than home-machines like the Brother 535.
The software you need is digitizing software. It allows you to tell the machine how it should make the stitches, in what order, and in what color. Depending on your budget and experience with technology, there are various options you can try. Most software allows you to try a demo or month-trial to see if you like it. There are also freeware options with open-source ad-ons. Some machines even come with software you can use, but this is not standard.
Digitizing software can run from $100-$5000. Yes, 5 thousand. Generally, the more expensive the software, the more supported it is with updates and more intuitive the controls and interface are. These programs include: Floriani Total Control U, Tajima Pulse, Wilcom eStudio.
More budget friendly (i.e, ~$600-1300 USD) programs include Wilcom Hatch, Pfaff Premier/6D, PE Design 11, Design Shop, Janome Artistic.
Cheaper programs include Embrilliance (only one to run on both mac&pc), SewArt, Embird, Stitch Artist.
Free programs include Inkstitch ad-on for Inkscape
Tutorials for each program vary: Wilcom Hatch often offers “passes” that include tutorials that are discounted at the time of your purchase. Silver Pass is often included. There are users here that have created tutorials for Inkstitch, including how to make patches.
Please be aware that pirated or illegal copies of programs like Floriani TCU or PE Design are available on ebay, but these are often broken or non-functional. Avoid these at all costs.
- Then where do I get designs?
If you can’t afford to drop a couple hundred on software, you can pay digitizers to create a design for you. This can cost $5-15 a pop. You can also buy designs from users on Etsy, Ebay, or on a designer's website. There are “packs” of embroidery files that you can find online.
- Why can’t I open this design?
Each machine uses their own file type, and some take multiple file types. Look at your user’s manual and see which design file your machine takes.
If you have a design in a file type that your machine doesn’t read, there are some software options for converting one file to another file type, but these vary in cost.
File types generally include: .sew, .pes, .xxx, .dst, .art, .exp, .kwk, .jef, .hus, .deb, .tap, and more
If the file is too large for the machine, it will not load. If your machine allows you to override this option, please be aware that you may run the needle into the hoop and break your needle, hoop, or machine. Always allow the machine to trace a design before running the machine.
- What kind of thread can I use?
There are different types of threads, and different weights. The most popular are rayon and polyester. Polyester tends to be colorfast as it is a synthetic thread. Rayon often has a more lustrous finish and is soft to the touch. But because it’s made of plant cellulose, it tends to bleed and fade over time. Cotton and Silk threads also exist, but the former tends to have a more dull finish and mostly comes in one (usually thicker) weight. Most companies produce their own colors, so you may find it hard to match colors across brands.
Each thread type has a max-speed, and more expensive threads are more likely to tolerate high speed stitching without breakage. Don’t be surprised if certain colors of a particular brand tolerate high speeds more effectively than others.
Metallic embroidery thread is often the most delicate, and breakage is very common. This is best used at a lower tension and at slower speeds.
Popular thread brands include: Isacord, Madeira, Marathon, Coats;
Cheaper brands include Brothread or Simthread and are available on Amazon.
Each thread comes in different weights: the higher the number, the smaller the thread. 40wt is thicker than 60wt, and 90wt is thinner than 60. Most bobbin thread can be purchased pre-wound for your specific bobbin case. (To find what type of bobbin class your machine uses, see your user’s manual). Most embroiders prefer pre-wound bobbins as the machines used to wind the bobbins are more likely to have consistent tension when winding, which allows for better stitch-out. If you would like to wind your own bobbins, you should stick to a thread weight that is lighter than your top thread, whatever that may be. Most pre-wound bobbins are 60wt.