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What to order

All files are availaible in repo or in Release

  • 2 PCBs - GERBER-pcb.zip and GERBER-connector.zip. For connector I recommend to select 1.2mm thickness. If using JLCPCB, choose "Specify a location" in "Remove order number". Other settings can be default
  • 4 case parts - bottom left, bottom right, top left and top right (with or without display)
  • 2 knobs - I recommend knobs-all.stl which contains EC12 knob and two knobs for 5 way switch

Bill of materials

If using nice!view:

Tools

  • Soldering iron. Any iron will work, but I highly recommend something small like TS100 or Pinecil with TS-K tip, it's good for SMD soldering
  • Solder wire, preferably with lead if you can get one. For EU I recommend this shop and Cynel brand, 0.56mm and 0.9mm
  • Flux
  • Flush cutters - be extra careful when cutting pins, always use eye protection
  • Hot glue (for nice!view only), instant glue (for resin case only)
  • Tweezers (I prefer reverse instead of regular), pliers, soldering mat, isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and cotton pads for cleaning

Preparations

  • download sample firmware, flash it to MCU and pair with your PC. It's easier to do it now and also check that MCU actually works
  • read through the whole build guide. Split your components into three groups - left side, right side and connector

Left side

  1. Left side components:

  2. Start from FFC connector, so you'll not be able to mix left and right sides anymore. As with any SMD part, start with putting some solder on only one big pad.

    Put the part into place, heat the solder blob and align the part to match other pads.

    Solder the second big pad, then proceed to pins. Don't drag the iron across pins, just solder them with the tip one by one, slowly and carefully. Use flux if you have it, clean with IPA afterwards.

    If any pins are bridged, add flux and remove extra solder by moving the iron along the pin from component to you. Again, slowly and patiently, it can take multiple tries but you can do it.

  3. Solder on/off switch. Same approach - start with one pad, put switch into place and finish other pins.

  4. Time for diodes. The PCB and case supports diodes both on any side. I prefer putting them on top inside switch's LED hole - it's pretty big and allows more relaxed placement. As to my knowledge, all Choc switches support LEDs, but double check your switches to be sure.

    Diodes are not symmetrical, make sure you're placing them correctly. Every diode has a vertical line on it marking the side with cathode, experiment with lighting and angle if you don't see it. That line should match with a vertical line inside the PCB's footprint and a thick border line (so you can verify it after soldering).

    Start with one pad, use tweezers to put the diode into place. Make sure to press on it with fingernail to avoid it floating in the air. Double check diode's orientation and solder second pad. If you're comfortable with SMD soldering already I recommend to do one pad for all diodes first, then place them and solder second pad for all of them at once.

  5. Flip the PCB, let's do hotswap sockets now. Much easier to work with, thicker solder wire is recommended, you'll need a lot. Sockets are not symmetrical, look at silkscreen on how to place it. Approach is still the same - first pad, then socket, then second pad. Make sure that socket is fully inserted into the PCB.

  6. [Optional] Solder JST battery connector. When attaching a battery, double check polarity, positive side (red wire) must match with + symbol on silkscreen - depending on your battery you may have to swap wires inside the connector. You can fix the battery in place with tape (use removable tape and/or try it inside the case first).

  7. Flip PCB again, last part - 5 way switch. It's not symmetrical, there is only one way you can insert it so do not force it. Start with big pads, finish with small ones.

    Left side is finished, congratulations!

Right side

  1. Right side components:

  2. Same as the left side - start with FFC, then diodes and sockets (on the bottom side).

  3. Prepare MCU headers - you'll need two strips of 12 pins and one of 2. Don't try to break the header between the pins, instead count the required number of pins, and break in middle of a next pin. Discard that pin and cut the plastic with flush cutters - it'll look much better. Assemble headers like this (using extra headers for stabilization):

    Flip carefully and solder all pins starting from corners. I prefer to cut first and then solder but you can cut afterwards as well, just remember to do it as bottom case has only 1.2mm space there.

    If you're using original nice!nano: insert 2-pin header into top holes (like on photos) and fix it in place with an extra pin header. If you're using clone: insert 2-pin header into bottom holes and fix it in place with tape (holes are not aligned so you can't use headers). Flip and solder.

  4. Solder reset button. SMD parts should be a piece of cake for you already, so no photos :)

  5. Time to actually socket the MCU.

    For nice!nano users - you have to cut plastic around the pin in the middle, n!n has some component in that place:

    Pull out 24 pins from RGB headers and put a piece of masking tape over all headers leaving some space in between for MCU components.

    Align MCU holes with headers (remember to ignore top holes on MCU, they are not used/soldered) and insert pins one by one. Cut them if you prefer but it's not required. Solder everything starting from corners. For nice!nano be extra careful not to bridge middle pins with SWC pad.

    Carefully extract MCU, remove tape and insert it back. Done!

  6. Solder rotary encoder, remember to cut pins under 1.2mm.

  7. [Optional] nice!view. You could solder it with wires directly but I like to socket it similar to MCU to make disassembly much easier. Cut the RGB strip to 6.5-7cm, clean the ends and solder them to keyboard PCB.

    Take an RGB header, bend pins on one side, insert it into nice!view and solder. Do not bend the header inside nice!view to avoid damaging the display.

    Glue nice!view to the case with hot glue or tape.

    Bend the wire into an S letter (see photo), attach it to nice!view and try to close the case, the wire must bend before reaching MCU:

    Right side is completed.

Connectors

Now this part is a bit confusing, look carefully on the photos and triple check your magnets for correct orientation.

  1. Prepare two connector PCBs, and put them down on different sides (for example jlcpcb's order number should be visible only on one of them). Rotate so that version number (0.3, 1.0, etc) is on top. Solder vertical FFC connectors, black part must be on top (next to version number). If you still soldered it upside down, don't worry and use another FFC cable (with contacts on different sides).

  2. Take magnetic connectors and put some tape on magnets to isolate them, otherwise they'll short PCB pads.

  3. Put PCBs onto connectors and double check that magnets are oriented correctly

  4. Take them apart and solder without flipping anything. It's a bit tricky because of magnets but doable with two hands. The easiest approach is to add a lot of flux and drag solder across all contacts.

  5. Attach connectors to the case. Black part of the FFC connector should not be visible, the wider connector should go to left (battery) side. Use 8mm and 10mm screws (on the photo I used 12mm screws as I didn't have 10mm, it'll look better for you).

  6. Insert magnets into the case. Holes are 3mm deep so they take two magnets. They overlap with connector's magnets a bit so try both sides - one will go easier than the other.

Case assembly

  1. Put screw inserts into the case. For resin case take 3.2mm-wide inserts and use instant glue (cyanoacrylate), for thermoplastics (MJF, PLA, etc) use 3.5mm and look at this guide for detailed instructions on heat inserts.

  2. Assemble top case and PCB together, connecting main PCB to connectors with FFC cables (same side contacts). I think it's easier to insert it into connector first, and then into main PCB.

  3. Connect both parts together, perform some basic testing - display, 5-way switch, encoder - everything should work already. I recommend to also test every key by shorting hotswap socket with some metal tool (switch puller, pliers, etc).

  4. If everything is ok - congratulations! Close the case with bottom part and 6mm screws, don't overtight them.

  5. Attach legs and magnets to the bottom, insert switches and keycaps.

Troubleshooting

Nothing works

  • try with USB cable
  • check that firmware is uploaded
  • reset BT on the keyboard, pair/unpair - see ZMK docs
  • check connection status (if using display)

Whole row/column does not work

  • check continuity from controller pin to problematic row/column (use schematic or silkscreen to trace exact pin). Weak points - MCU sockets, FFC connectors, magnet connectors

Single key does not work

  • check that switch is inserted correctly, you should see both pins inside the hotswap socket
  • short hotswap socket manually, if it works - move the hotswap springs closer to each other
  • check that hotswap socket is soldered correctly
  • use multimeter to check diode orientation, you can do it from bottom side as well
  • check that diode is soldered

Display does not work

  • check soldering on display connector
  • try my original firmware